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Which pipes are most at risk
- Pipes running through an unheated crawl space or garage.
- Pipes along an exterior wall, especially in older homes with less wall insulation.
- Pipes in a rim joist area, where insulation is often thin or missing.
- Any outdoor spigot or hose bib left connected to a hose going into winter.
Before the cold arrives
- Disconnect garden hoses and shut off the water to exterior spigots if your home has an interior shut-off for them.
- Insulate exposed pipes in crawl spaces, garages and attics with foam pipe sleeves — a low-cost fix for the highest-risk locations.
- Seal gaps where cold air can reach pipes — around dryer vents, cable lines, or foundation penetrations.
- Know where your main shut-off valve is before you need it in an emergency, not during one.
During a hard freeze
- Let faucets drip on the coldest nights — moving water is far less likely to freeze solid than standing water, and it relieves pressure buildup if ice does form elsewhere in the line.
- Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls so warm room air can reach the pipes underneath.
- Keep the heat on, even when you’re away — set the thermostat no lower than 55°F if you’ll be gone for more than a day or two during a cold stretch.
If you suspect a pipe has already frozen
A frozen pipe isn’t necessarily a burst pipe yet — if you lose water pressure at a fixture during a cold snap, that’s often the sign. Leave the faucet open and apply gentle heat to the section you suspect (a hair dryer, not an open flame), starting from the end closest to the faucet. If you can’t find or reach the frozen section, or water starts leaking as it thaws, shut off the main valve and call for help rather than risk flooding while nobody’s watching.
Already dealing with a burst? See frozen pipe burst repair for what to do right now.
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